Celebrating culture & celebrating a defeat

Yes, Catalans are probably the only people in the world that have marked the national day on the very day they lost a war. This is, 9/11 , 1714, Barcelona surrended to the troupes of Felipe V, king of Spain. Civil war was ended.

So, for whatever the reasons, this day, after which many Catalan institutions were abolished and Catalan language and culture virtually forbidden, has been chosen to be the Diada Nacional (National Day). This says a lot about Catalan mentality, probably.

So 9/11 is a bank holiday in Catalonia, but nothing much goes on. There are a few acts, politicians appear on TV, etc. But people tend just to use the day to go to the beach and enjoy the last bits of summer.

However, there is a de facto National Day, another Diada, which people from Catalonia really like to celebrate. This is for St.jordi, April 23rd (St. George). It is not a bank holiday, yet the atmosphere on the streets is great. Cutting it short, men give roses to women, and women give books to men (you see we are not sexist), so thousands of made-up shops selling books and roses are set up that very day on the main streets of every town. So if you are lucky and you get to be in a sunny April 23rd in Catalonia, you'll see the crowds just walking around, sightseeing, enjoying the day and the breeze (and a lot of holding hands couples). Every one loves this day, so pretty much everyone is on the streets for St.jordi, making the atmosphere really lively. Odd as it may seem, there is nothing much beyond the rose buying and book-choosing. There are no late-night-parties, no official acts, no concerts, no nothing. It is a really spontaneous joy-day and that's probably why everyone likes it so much. It has no political connotations, nobody can 'steal' it, no partisanship, nobody is closer Saint George than anyone else. It is true that senyeres (Catalan flags) shine everywhere, but this is a day for romanticism and culture, not for big nationalist spirits or reivindications.

Now if you want to know the legend beyond St.Jordi you may keep on reading. By and large, what we were told in school, once upon a time there was this really really bad dragon who got pissed off out of the blue and went to the town where the king lived and said 'I want a lady everyday outside the walls so I can take her to my cave and serve myself'. No one was happy about this but ladies were somehow delivered, until one day, the dragon, very bad himself, demanded the princess herself. Oh, that was a wrong move by the dragon, because then, more than ever, knights offered their services to the king to go kill the beast. All efforts were in vain, yet then St.Jordi arrived. He went to the cave were the dragon lived, killed the lad with his sword, and, legend goes, the blood of the animal gave rise to a lovely red rose, which St.Jordi took and offered to the princess. Then they lived happily ever after etc.

So now we have half the story: why men give roses to ladies on the 23rd. The second half, why women give books to men, I am not so sure about it. It is pretty funny though that Cervantes and Shakespeare, probably the two most recognised authors of all times, BOTH died on 4/23/1616. (And Josep Pla, one of the best Catalan writers of all times, on April 23rd, 1981). Yet the fundamental story I don't know. I know, however, that the Catalan Governement managed some years ago to convince UNESCO to make April 23rd the day of universal culture, or something like this.

In any case, this is probably the best example that politically-unbiased celebrations can really get to the heart of people. Just drop in Catalonia any random 4/23 and you'll realise what I mean: love and good spirits are in the air.

Two footnotes:

First, the tradition is very sexist, yet recently people now are somehow changing it. We kinda love giving roses, so we give them to our mums, daughters, sisters, spouses, grandmas, girlfirends, friends and etc. Yet, as said, we give them books too. And modern couples give both a book and a rose to each other. This could be extended to parents or roomates, whatever the sex. Catalans are ready to give the plumber a rose if they happen to have a scheduled appointement.

Finally, Josep Pla has somehow been left aside because he is deemed to have collaborated with the Franco fascist regime at some stage. Be this true or not, the truth is that he was never engaged against it. So after the end of the Dictatorship (1975) and his death (1981), he has been recognised as a good author, but never venerated as the awesome story-writing beast he was. Once for example, the Franco regime ordered him to go to the USSR as a spy. He sent weekly or monthly reports that may have been of great help to the Franco authorities. The point is, though, that the lad never set foot in the USSR: he did not move from Calella, a small town by the shore on the North coast of Catalonia. So he must have been a pretty good writer to have fooled those fascist chumps for a not-too-short period of time. Again, this may be an overrated aspect of his life, but I am pretty sure it is true.

Where to eat in Barcelona: El Portolés

It's not chic. It ain't cool. It's not snob. It's small. Smoking is allowed. Menu is written on a rusty blackboard. Waiting services are efficient, yet not overwhelmingly friendly. It's not comfortable. It's quite loud.

However, this IS the place anyone should go eat if ever in Barcelona. El Portolés, C/ Diputació, 375.

So why should one set foot there? Because this IS Barcelona. It's a local restaurant for locals. This is where locals go eat. Because it's typical yet not pretentious.

Food is excellent and rapidly served. Cuisine is nothing but traditional. The menu basically entails anything that may be considered typical Catalan (botifarra amb seques) or Mediterranean diet (salad, fresh fish, vegetables...). And most importantly, as well, prices are more than reasonable.

So if you are not a local, you may wonder why one may see a line outside this small place even before 2pm (which is pretty early for a lunch in Barcelona). Just don't wonder any more, get in and enjoy! It won't be the best food ever, neither will it be the most elegant room you'll ever enter. Nonetheless, you'll be a local for a while. You'll see the typical atmosphere of a Catalan restaurant. You'll eat the stuff locals eat on a daily basis. You won't be ripped off. In sum, you won't be fooled by the design of the place into a standard rum-of-the-mill quality meal for guiris, local slang for foreigners.

And you'll eat pretty well. Very well. Even more, you'll see probably one of the few waiters that does not need to take notes at all. And he won't mistake! Furthermore, English is not spoken, so you may have a chance to practise your Spanglish!

So if when travelling you like getting to know the places rather than merely visiting stones and museums, this is one place you definitely have to go. You won't be disappointed. What's more, you'll want to go back! (In any case, there must a reason why my dad has been eating in this place thrice a week for the last 20 years). And don't forget to ask for your carajillo de Baileys before leaving!

OKs and NOT OKs in Barcelona

These are a few tips for Americans, Koreans and Irish(wo)men who may drop in Catalonia.
FOR AMERICANS

In Barcelona it is ok to...

- touch other people and hug them. It is even ok to kiss them, whatever the gender.
- pour alcohol in your coffee
- wear tight clothes (actually, trendy)
- have lunch after 2pm. And it is ok to have supper after 10pm.
- (unluckily) smoke wherever you feel like

In Barcelona it is not ok to...

- drink coffees larger than a wee cup
- have more than 2 ingredients in a coffee. P.ex. a large mocha with caramel, vanilla and whipped cream is technically a disgrace.
- drink beer lite (NO WAY!)
- leave jackets and coats lying around on the floor
- go to class (even if college) with make up
- use your car to go buy milk

TIPS FOR KOREANS


In Barcelona it is ok to...

- get in someone's home with your shoes on
- eat rice-free breakfast
- tell someone to come moving only the index finger
- have non spicy meals
- show that you are upset when you are
- serve (and be served) using your left hand
- say 'bless you' (salut, literally health) when someone sneezes (and actually, polite!)

In Barcelona it is not ok to...

- tell someone to come waving your hand (it's ok, but certainly will be misunderstood)
- get drunk with your boss more than once a year
- smile when you did something wrong


TIPS FOR IRISH

In Barcelona it is ok to...

- enter a pub with friends and order a beer only four yourself (rounds are welcome though)
- eat a meal without spuds
- play sports in which splitting a rival's head does not earn you points
- walk on the streets with a T-Shirt on, no matter how hot and sunny it may be

In Barcelona it is not ok too...

- get drunk in funerals
- fight people randomly in pubs
- wear socks and sandals at the same time

Why debates do not generate debate *

Spanish general elections are very soon - in less than two weeks. Yesterday I had the pleasure (or patience, depending on the degree of optimism) of watching the debate on TV between Zapatero (PSOE candidate for Prime Minister, sort of leftist party) and Rajoy (PP candidate for PM, conservative party). Once the debate (better: sequence of monologues) was over, the press, mass media and political analysts focused on the following aspects:

1. Who has won the debate?

2. Who says who has won the debate?

3. Who do the people think has won the debate?

It's probably not a big discovery to assert that the main aim of the debate isn't, as one would guess from the noun, to create discussion, but to win it, or, more importantly, to give the impression that it has been won.

Some sociologist said a while ago (I can never recall who) that 'whatever is defined as real is real in its consequences'. Translated in the world of politics: do you want to win the elections? Say that you can win them. Say that you will win them.

One example? 'Yes, we can!' - Obama's motto. His start was not the most encouraging, but after -unexpectedly- winning in Iowa, a sort of snowball took off and he is nowadays as close to winning as Hillary is. The key, the message. Yes, indeed, we can! We can change America, we can win the primaries, we can beat McCain. Clarity, self-confidence and optimism: 3 basics in current politics, 3 basics outlined in 3 words.

So nobody should be taken unaware if yesterday's debate between both Spanish candidates was hollow and nothing more than a mere repetition of the messages thrown at the public for the last four years. Neither was actually trying to convince anyone, but to mobilise. Mobilise their people, this is, their potential voters. Rajoy trying to show that PSOE are a bunch of losers; Zapatero, the experts say, giving the impression that the elections are tighter than we may think, so there's the real peril that conservatives may actually win. Hence leftists should either go to vote or go to vote.

Hence both parties, PP and PSOE, are interested not in spreading a programme but in telling who the winner was. If our leader wins, we are sending a message of security and confidence, our voters will go to the polls and our opponents' voters will stay home. Whatever our leader says in the debate, even if he says he eats parrot for thanksgiving, is acceptable, as long as it sounds cool. And, same way there are 'banana republics' (Spanish pejorative term to denote countries run by dictators or oligarchies) we have a 'soccer-love monarchy' as well. Once the debate is over, everyone, press, mass media, analysts, let's talk only about who won it, trying to make the best of the metaphors, the closer they are to soccer, the better.

There is something we clearly have to learn from the Americans in this respect. There was yet another Obama - Clinton debate last night, and once it was over, the main interest was not to decipher who had won it. Discussions in the media dealt with programmes, arguments, the main lines of the campaign... nobody paid real heed on whether Clinton was dressing in mango (or whatever colour she was wearing) so as to look less agressive or whether Obama overcame Clinton's pressure with the elegance Kobe Bryant dribbles away from his opponents.

It is true that many democrats will end up voting for the candidate they see best prepared to beat McCain in November (and, here, I daresay Obama will beat Clinton as he is seen as the most likely winner versus McCain), yet, in any case, here in the USofA, still, debates are able to generate debate, offer discussions on proposals and even be somewhat unpredicatable. In this sense, as in political participation, Americans are still one step beyond.